1. Place the control box shifter in full forward gear. This can be verified by rotating the prop or propshaft counter-clockwise, it should lock. On Generation two units, with the drive up, remove the speedometer fitting. This is just under the exhaust bellows, twist or squeeze clip to remove. Trim the drive down.
2. Drain the gear lube if desired, remove the lower drain screw first, then the upper screw. On gen. ll units with an internal gear lube reservoir, the oil will also drain from the reservoir. Remove the fill screw gaskets and place them on the fill screws so they don't get lost.
3. Remove the aft trim cylinder anchor pins. The anchor pins have 5/8" nuts (older units had a 9/16" nuts) It will also help to loosen the forward pin nuts. Generation 2 units use a solid shaft with "e" clips under the caps. Sometimes these pins and rubber bushings will be very hard to remove. If needed, gently pry between the upper housing and the trim cylinder. Sometimes the stainless anchor pins will be corroded stuck in the aluminum, if so these will need replaced. If the rubber bushings are worn, replace them too.

4. Remove all but one of the six nuts holding the outdrive on, loosen the last one almost all the way off. Newer units use 5 washers, they have a ground washer attached under one nut, older units use 6 washers. If the drive is in forward, the trim cylinders are off, and hopefully the drive is not too far off the ground, the drive should slide off the studs with a little "slam". Pick the aft end of the drive up and let it pivot back down with a "slam". If gentle rocking will not free the drive or it hasn't been of for a while (if ever), you may need to pry between the bell housing (where the studs are) and the drive gasket surface. BE CAREFUL not to gouge the gasket surface! Now, after removing the last nut, you should be able to pull the outdrive off, (heavy, don't drop it on your feet).

5. If this STILL does not want to come loose, you may have a severe corrosion problem or an out of engine alignment problem. There are ways to get this done, some tricks can be severe or cause potential damage. Please call for us for a helping hand!

6. Check inside the bell housing, there should not be any water or signs of water such as rust color. The gimbal bearing should rotate free, not feel rough. The " U" joints on the drive should not be rusty. If you have rusty parts, then you most likely have a bad bellows. This, along with a bad gimbal bearing, MUST be replaced, rusty gimbal bearings can seize, rusty "U" joints can come apart and cause serious (read: expensive) damage to the transom assembly. A bad bellows can sink the boat! Most don't realize these rubber parts must be replaced at least every three years.

7. Before installing the outdrive, the engine alignment must be checked. You will need an alignment tool. This can be bought, borrowed, stolen, etc. Or take the boat with the drive off to your dealer to have it checked. Please securely tie up the trim cylinders, I've seen them come to me ground to nubs from dragging pavement. A reputable dealer should not charge much for this unless it is way off. The alignment tool verifies proper alignment between the gimbal bearing and the engine coupler (bad alignment WILL cause coupler damage (again, expensive). The tool should slide in easily with only slight resistance felt when the tool enters the coupler.
8. If all is well, it's time to install your outdrive.

Installation:

1. Clean off all old gasket material on the bell housing and the outdrive. Replace all o-rings on the shaft, inside the bell housing, and the water passage o-ring (glue or grease it to hold it in place). On Gen. ll units with an internal reservoir, make sure the o-ring is OK around the gear lube fitting. Install a new gasket.
2. Using a good marine grease, liberally grease the "U" joints, the roller on the shift slide, the shift slide itself, the input shaft o-ring area and splines. When in doubt, grease it!
3. It helps to have the drive on the ground and the input shaft level with the boat. If you don't have to lift the drive it is much easier.
4. You need to shift the drive into forward (hopefully the boat is still in forward). This done by turning the propshaft counter-clockwise while turning the brass shift shaft clockwise. Generation two units have a stainless steel shift shaft. You should feel it lock solidly.
5. It helps to have a prop on the drive in case you need to turn it to make the input shaft splines line up.
6. With the drive and boat in forward, everything greased, carefully slide the input shaft into the gimbal bearing. The shift crank roller should be engaged in the shift slide. (It helps to use a thick grease to hold these parts together)
7. If you bump the propeller, it may move out of forward, verify it's still in forward. As you slide the drive in, you should feel the shaft go into the coupler, as it gets very close, you made need to turn the prop counter-clockwise to turn the input shaft slightly (it will turn with some resistance). At the same time you will be verifying the shift roller and slide are still where they should be. Work the drive into the splines and onto the studs. You will feel resistance from the o-rings. You should NOT have to force anything!
8. Now tighten the six nuts on the studs (45 foot pounds, or good and tight). Have a helper shift the boat into neutral (not running, please), then reverse and back to forward all the while spinning the prop. The prop should lock in forward and reverse and obviously spin free in neutral. If this is not the case, check to make sure the shift roller did not disengage the shift slide. In some cases when replacing the drive with a new unit, the shift may have to be adjusted. This is discussed in detail elsewhere, or you can take it to your dealer for an adjustment.
9. Replace the trim cylinder anchor pin hardware.
10. Refill the outdrive with good quality synthetic gear lube, recommended Quicksilver or Sierra hi performance synthetic gear lube. The gear lube is filled from the bottom up. With your gear lube pumping in the bottom, fill until the lube runs out the top hole. Replace the upper screw first, then the lower screw. The gear lube level should be given a final check after settling, preferably a day or so later. DON'T FORGET to fill the internal reservoir!
11. With a garden hose flush attachment attached or the boat in the water, run the engine and verify water pump operation (water should pump out of transom assembly) and good shift engagement forward and reverse (watch for obstacles or people when shifting). It is advisable when replacing with a new drive to verify proper shift adjustment with the boat in the water. Shifting should be firm and positive (no ratcheting) at or near the detent areas on the control box. Stalling when shifting and lack of cooling water being pumped are signs of other problems. Call for help.

Recommended tools and supplies:

1. Hand tools: Ratchet and or breaker bar, Sockets 5/8" or 9/16" for older units. Large and small screw drivers.
2. Special tools: (optional but recommended) Alignment tool, Gear lube pump.
3. Materials: Grease gun, Good quality marine grease, 2 Qts. Gear lube (Quicksilver or Sierra hi performance synthetic gear lube)
4. Optional: Quality shop manual.

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Replacing seawater pump, #1 and Alpha One Gen. 1

1) Drain the lower unit oil from the outdrive.

2) Tilt the outdrive so it is halfway up, and shift in forward gear.

3) Remove the zinc anode with an allen wrench, ( 5/16" or 3/8"). Important! If you do not have power steering, mark position of tab.

4) Remove 5/16" allen head bolt, below the anode.

5) Remove the two 5/8" locknuts countersunk in cavitation plate above the prop.

6) Remove the 5/8" nut on leading edge of drive, (facing up).

7) Remove the two 5/8" nuts visible from either side in middle of drive. As you remove these the drive may want to come off freely. It is recommended that you have a helper available to assist in lowering the lower drive section.

8) There is a small O-ring on the mating surface of the lower unit. It is on the stbd side, near the front. Remove this and save it for now.

9) Look to see that the copper water tube stayed in upper drive, if it did not, (and it pulled out with the lower unit), put it back in the upper section.

10) Look to see if the plastic tube stayed in water pump, if not check copper tube. If it stayed attached to the copper tube, be careful removing it as not to damage either the plastic or copper tube.

11) Look to see if the "O" ring for shaft stayed in its groove, if missing check above the seal to locate.

12) Remove the nuts and bolt that retain the water pump upper housing.

13) Carefully pry the upper housing up and off drive shaft, you will have to remove the "O" ring and seal ring.

14) Lift impeller up and off of the shaft. Watch for the key that turns impeller.

15) Remove the wear plate and gaskets below the impeller.

16) If the pump was run without water, or the housing (upper or lower) appears to be deformed or distorted in any way, the housing must be replaced.

17) To change the lower housing (pump base), pry it up with two screwdrivers.

18) Replace the base gasket, base, and "O" ring and check seals in base.

19) Wrap a piece of electrical tape around driveshaft upper o-ring groove to prevent cutting the seals, then slide the base, with gasket in place, down the shaft and seat it.

20) Place the new wear plate with gaskets over the base, large gasket hole towards the top.

21) Slide the impeller with a light grease coating, down the shaft and over the key in the slot. (Be careful the key does not slide out of the slot when placing the impeller in position)

22) Slide the upper housing down the shaft, turn the shaft clockwise while pressing the upper housing down on the impeller.

23) Reinstall the bolt and nuts, (do not overtighten), replace O-ring, seal ring, and the plastic tube.

24) Check the rubber grommet, which accepts the copper tube, is in place in upper housing.

25) Replace the small oil passage O-ring removed in step 8.

26) Turn shift shaft, in front of drive, clockwise, while applying pressure to the prop counter clockwise. The shift shaft should lock facing forward. Check for the O- ring (from step 8 and 25) on the oil passage between parts has not moved.

27) Using two people, carefully the lower unit back up, line up copper tube into plastic tube.

28) Line up the studs and lift gently, simultaneously lining up the shift shaft and shift coupler.

29) As soon as the brass shift coupler for the shift shaft reaches the splined shaft in the lower unit, use it as a tool.

30) Turn the shift shaft with shift coupler clockwise and continue turn the prop counter clockwise, when it stops it must be facing forward.

31) If the brass shift coupler is not pointing forward, (when it turned), lift it and change its position on the splines. Repeat step #30.

32) At this point apply a greater force to the prop counter clockwise to turn drive shaft, as you lift the drive. Continue this until splines on drive line up and the lower unit slides into the upper drive unit.

33) Be sure the socket head bolt for the anode trim tab is in place.

34) Start the two 5/8" nuts (from step 7) on the sides and snug the unit upward.

35) Rotate the prop back and forth while shifting, to check for proper Forward - Neutral - Reverse shifting.

36) If shifting is wrong go back to step #27.

37) Install the rest of the 5/8" nuts and tighten.

38) Replace the 5/16" allen head bolt and replace trim tab anode lined up with mark made in step #3.

39) Fill the outdrive gear oil from the bottom, and make sure it comes out of top hole.

40) Check for oil leaks. Pressure test if possible. Run engine with a garden hose adaptor to verify water pump operation.

31) Wait 24 hours and check oil level and for leaks.

Necessary tools and supplies:

• 5/8" Wrenches, 5/8" socket 1/2" socket, 7/16" socket, 5/16" socket.
• 5/16" or 3/8" allen wrench.
• Screwdriver (s).
• Water pump kit or pump kit with housing.
• Gear lube (synthetic).
• Gear lube pump.
• Marine grease.
• Garden hose attachment (flush adaptor)

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Bellows and gimbal bearing replacement, Alpha & #1 sterndrives:

"This section is designed to help you as a do-it yourselfer to replace the "U" Joint bellows, water hose, shift bellows and exhaust bellows on #1 (1973 thru 1984), "R", Alpha One generation one (1985 thru 1990), and Alpha One generation 2 (1990 thru present), transom assemblies. This job goes much better in a clean, safe, warm, environment enviroment, batteries disconnected, no fuel leaks, etc. Bellows jobs are time consuming, sometimes knucklebusting. If you can get a helper, especially one familiar with this repair then by all means do so. Or you can help a buddy out when it's his turn. Either way, doing this yourself can save you alot of money, we typically charge about $600.00! This section is to be used as a guide only, so please read and understand disclaimer below"!

Removal:

1) Remove the sterndrive unit as outlined in above section. If this job is being performed maintenance routine maintanence it does go easier. The manufacturer recommends all transom rubber be replaced at least every three (3) years.

If you are replacing the bellows because of a "U" Joint bellows failure (water in the bellows, bad gimbal bearing, "U" Joints, etc.) you may have to replace the gimbal bearing before taking anything else apart. The gimbal bearing on very old units was a sealed (and expensive) bearing, these were held in place by a large snap ring. Newer units all use the more common, less expensive bearing as included on this site and with transom repair kits. The gimbal bearing can be installed in two ways, if you are lucky, the bearing will be installed with the notches in the bearing carrier facing out. See figure 1. If this is the case you can take the bell housing and bellows off first because if the notches face out the bearing assembly can be turned 90 degrees in the carrier and removed. If you do not see the notches (as on newer models or bearings that have never been replaced) you will need a puller. You can use a heavy 3 jaw slide hammer puller that most auto parts stores will let you rent (or borrow for free!) Bring the new bearing with you for sizing. If that doesn't get it then a threaded 3 jaw puller necessary be neccessary. This puller uses the bell housing to pull against.

Figure 1

2) Remove trim limit switch (port) and trim sender (stbd) on gimbal ring. These are held by stainless screws threaded into aluminum (what were they thinking???) so sometimes they can be very tough, if you dock you boat and have any electrolysis at all you can bet they will be stuck. Buy, beg, borrow, steal an impact screwdriver (screwdriver you hit with a hammer). Worst case you will break the heads off, you can heat them after the senders are off to remove the remaining screw threads. See figure 2.

Tip: If your trim limit and/or trim sender wires or senders are looking bad, now is the time to replace them. The bellows must be removed in order to replace trim senders. They now only come in kit form.

3) Remove hinge pins. Older models used a solid pin held in by an aluminum "nail", remove the nail and hammer in or pull out (1/4"-28 threads) the pins. Newer (1976 & up)hinge pins are threaded, you will use a special hinge pin tool and a 1/2"-1/2" drive socket and breaker bar. These threaded pins are locktited in and may need a little heat to get them moving. Please use a electric heat gun, torches can cause a big mess, grease and the opening to boat bilge can make for a puddle of fiberglass that used to be your boat! See figure 3.

4) In order to replace the shift bellows you will have to disassemble the shift cable inside the boat. In most cases we recommend replacing the cable while you are replacing the bellows. it is very easy to kink the cable, which means you'll have to take everything apart again. On original cables, the factory locks the brass barrel in place, if you cannot turn the brass barrel and it has punch marks on it then it is original, see figure 4. If you want to try and save the cable, remove the small set screws on the plastic end, remove the plastic cable end, remove the stainless steel threaded guide, then push the inner core wire into the cable jacket to protect the core wire. We use a homemade tool that threads into the cable jacket which follows the cable out the back of the transom when removing then reattaches to the new cable when installing. Some V-8 powered boats can be impossible to snake the cable back in otherwise. More about this later...

5) Remove transom rubber, you can just cut them off with a utility knife.

Figure 2 Figure 3

figure 4

6) Clean all mating surfaces, solvent and a wire brush might be neccessary to remove glue residue.

Installation:

7) Replace gimbal bearing, if you were lucky and were able to "rotate" the bearing assembly from the outer carrier, rotate a new bearing in place making sure that grease hole lines up with grease groove in carrier, otherwise the bearing will not get grease. If you have an alignment tool, insert it into bearing to line up the bearing with the coupler on the engine (get it started and tap bar in all directions with a dead-blow hammer). If you had to use a puller to remove the entire bearing and carrier (the way a new bearing is packaged), use a suitable driver to hammer the new bearing in. You can install the bearing with the notches out to make it easier for next time. The bearing carrier has a hole for grease which must line up with the hole in the gimbal housing, make a mark on both to help line it up. Grease the outside of the bearing carrier and drive it in being careful to only drive the outer carrier and not the inner bearing. You will hammer the bearing in until seated, it will make a different sound when fully seated and you will see about a 1/16" of the bearing bore, see figure 5:

Figure 5

8) Replace shift cable in bell housing if neccessary, keep cable ends clean, cover with tape.

9) The shift bellows, water hose, and exhaust bellows go on the gimbal housing (transom plate) first. Use bellows adhesive on rubber parts, bellows adhesive is applied to rubber clamping surfaces. On all bellows wait until adhesive is no longer tacky (about ten minutes or so) before assembling. The water hose goes on easier if the adhesive is still wet (slippery). The shift cable bellows clamp can be tightened easily with a short 5/16" wrench. Clamp positioning is very important! See figures 6 & 7:

Figure 6 Figure 7

10) For Alpha One Generation 2 only: The forward end (marked fwd, Up) will be installed on the Gimbal housing next. Apply bellows adhesive, allow to dry, and work the bellows over the clamping surface making sure clamp is positioned correctly as in figure 6. To help verify the bellows is installed correctly, the bellows edge should meet the bosses on the gimbal housing on both sides, see figure 8:

Figure 8

11) Alpha One generation one and older models: Install aft end of the "U" Joint bellows, (marked Aft, Up,) on the bell housing. Again, apply bellows adhesive, allow to dry and make sure the clamps are positioned correctly, see figure 9.

Figure 9

12) Feed the shift cable into the shift bellows (a little grease on the cable helps), have a helper help guide the cable back position gently or pull it in with a homemade snake tool, place the "U" Joint bellows clamp on Loosely, and while guiding the cable in, push the bell housing in against the transom, hopefully you should feel the forward edge of the bellows "pop" into position on the clamping surface. You should verify this on both sides as in figure 8. Allow the adhesive to set a bit, then tighten the clamp with a long screwdriver.

13) Install hinge pins with loctite, tighten to 90 ft. lbs. or good and tight with a breaker bar.

14) Generation 2 only: The aft end of the bellows is held in place by the ridge on the inside surface of the bell housing and a inner sleeve. Apply bellows adhesive to rubber groove where it meets the bell housing. Work the bellows inside the lip (all the way until it stops) and push in the inner stainless steel ring.

15) Install water hose (bellows adhesive helps it slide on). Tip: you can use the hinge pin tool and a ratchet to hold the bell housing up.

16) Install aft end of exhaust bellows, Tip: it helps to pre-stretch the exhaust bellow over a plastic tube overnight or soak it in hot water prior to installing. You can also use a Exhaust bellows expander tool for this job.

17) Install the trim limit and trim position senders, they have an index mark next to the hex which approximates the setting of the senders when the drive (bell housing) is all the way down. Grease fittings ensuring gimbal bearing is accepting grease.

18) Reassemble and reattach the shift cable, Check engine alignment if not done before, and reinstall outdrive with new gasket kit.

19) Check shift for proper engagement, verify correct trim limit and guage operation.

20) You are done! Go find tools you may have thrown in the yard in frustration, have a beer, whatever you may find appropriate. You just saved a boat-load of $$$

Necessary tools and supplies:

• hinge pin tool
• Bellows kit
• Long screwdriver
• breaker bar & 1/2" socket
• Bellows adhesive
• Quality marine grease
• Loctite

Recomended tools and supplies:

• Alignment tool
• shift cable
• Trim position/trim limit sender kit
• Exhaust bellows expander
• "U" Joints (If bellows was bad)
• Shop manual.

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New sterndrive and gear break-in Procedures:

After checking and double-checking above-mentioned gear lube levels, shift and water pump operation. Please follow the break-in instructions:

For the first 5 hours do not run a constant RPM. Vary the RPM's every 5 minutes or so. Do not exceed 75% throttle for the first 5 hours. Shift into forward and reverse a minimum of 10 times in the first 5 hours. For hours 5-10 you should do short runs at full throttle. After 10 hours normal operation can resume. Change the gear lube between 10 and 20 hours.

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Disclaimer:

While every precaution has been taken in the preparation of these guides, We can assume no responsibility for errors or omissions. Neither is any liability assumed for damages resulting from use of the information contained herein. Publication of the procedures in these guides does not imply approval of the manufacturers of the products covered. Persons engaging in the procedures herein do so at their own risk.

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